So instead, I don’t press and only control it at the sewing machine with my finger. But for heavier fabric, a pressed zipper usually leads to me stitching too close to the zipper teeth. For lightweight fabric, a pressed zipper is OK. But I found that is not always desirable. Some people also like to open the zipper and press to uncoil the teeth. It’s way easier to shorten the invisible zipper at the end than having to dodge the zipper pull during installation. I’d also like to mention that I always use a longer invisible zipper than needed. But the typical Coat and Clark zipper from any sewing store would work too. When I see it available, I buy almost a boat load at once. Unfortunately, this mesh tape zipper is not easy to find in the big-box sewing stores. I never had one broken on me (touch wood). Supposedly it is for lighter weight fabric, and I have used it on a slightly heavier quilting cotton with no problem. Let’s begin by bringing out the invisible zipper! My favorite kind of invisible zipper has a mesh tape. What’s really special is the lining installation, which is the next part. However, if you already know how to install an invisible zipper, by all means, do it your own way. I hope that it gives you a tip or two anyway. But for the sake of completeness, this part 1 covers the invisible zipper installation. Often I try to write tutorials only when I have something special and valuable to add to the vast sea of tutorials out there on the topic. However, before I go straight to lining installation, I feel that I need to go over the actual invisible zipper installation. Once you get it though, there’s really nothing hard about it. I like it because it’s not difficult to do, although it’s a little hard to explain. ![]() This particular one that I cracked is mostly found in little girls’ dresses. (Maybe not.)Īnyway, I found that even different ready-to-wear clothes have different ways to handle the invisible zipper and lining. I have also been known to buy used clothes and cut things open. My friends are embarrassed to go shop with me, so sometimes I just take the clothing to the fitting room and geek over them privately. I am that chick who always turns the clothes inside out and admires the internal structure of clothing (my favorite is to dig through the various pockets in the outerwear section at REI). What do I do? Nothing but to go through every one of them in the store (ok, not EVERY one) and try to figure it out. ![]() So it appears that this is a solved problem, but that knowledge is just not widely circulated in the home-sewing industry. Yet the invisible zipper and the accompanying lining in ready-to-wear clothing are mostly great. I have never worked in a clothing factory, but my wild guess is that no factory would give you the couture touch of hand stitching the lining in your dress. If you check out the instructions on any “big-4” pattern, they will tell you to hand stitch the lining. ![]() Though the instructions in my patterns on this topic is far from perfect, I have gone through many other tutorials and pattern instructions (MANY!) on handling the lining with an invisible zipper, none gave me a better result than what I already have. It looks fine from outside, but there is still a little bulge and a bit of pull at the top of the zipper inside. I was never truly happy about my way of installing a lining with an invisible zipper. Part 2 will be about installing the lining with this invisible zipper. This post is about installing an invisible zipper. Invisible Zipper with Lining Installation – Part 1
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